Friday night out with the school crowd was a lot of fun. We had food and drinks at the school with a good turnout of teachers and students and later went to a karaoke bar and then two danceclubs. So I defintely got the full Sucre nightlife experience. Saturday night I hung out in the hostel with some other travelers and Sunday got up early to meet fellow students Duncan and Catherine to visit the Sunday markets in Tarabuco. Tarabuco is about 65 km from Sucre and is known for its market and the traditional dress of the locals. There is also a staue of a Bolivian man standing over the corpse of a Spaniard as he is just about to eat the dead man´s heart. The story is that the Spaniard had raped and killed his wife and children and eating the heart of a defeated foe was supposed to give you their lifepower. Interesting (if morbid) stuff. We had a good time wandering the market (which takes up most of the town) and later hung out at Catherine and Duncan´s hostel and went for a local dinner. Actually Duncan and Catherine´s hostel became my other home for the rest of the week. I had my second week of classes in Sucre which I felt went even better than the first. I am still not fluent, but I think I have definitely improved (thanks Omar!). Monday night a couple of us went to watch a documentary about life in the mines of Potosi. Much more on that later, but if you get a chance to see The Devil´s Miner, I definitely recommend it.
Thursday was Bolivia´s Fiestas Patrias (Independence Day). The festivities actually kicked off Tuesday night with music and parades. Pretty much the majority of the celebration is music and parades but there are tons and tons of them. It is mandatory for all students and many people of differing occupations to participate in the parades. The town was completely covered in flags. The Pesident, Evo, made an appearance (and to everyone´s pleasant surprise there were no riots or major protests) with a pre-recorded speech. The town was full of campesinos and miners who came in to see Evo but I missed most of that due to classes. It was really cool to be in the capital for Independence Day though! Friday was my last day of classes and my last night in Sucre so a group from school met at my second home and then went out for tapas. It was a great end to my time there. I miss Sucre and my friends there already.
Yesterday I headed to Potosi which at 4060 meters (over 13,000 feet) is the highest city in the world. My main reason for visiting was to do a tour of the silver mines. The tour didn´t disappoint. We first went to get geared up in protective clothing, boots, and hard hats with lights on them. Then we split into groups of 8 or less by language (I went with the Spanish group) and headed to the miners market. In the market we bought gifts of dynamite and soda for the miners. In the morning, you gift coca leaves as well since the miners chew it all day, but in the afternoons they have enough. In Potosi anyone can walk into a store and buy dynamite- even kids. From the market we went up to the plant where they separate the silver from the rock and other minerals and watched the machines in action. Then we headed to the mines. I had heard the stories and knew that the excursions into the mines was no picnic, but I wanted to experience it for myself. Tourists are not coddled, we are there facing the same conditions as the miners do every day, albeit for a much shorter duration. Potosi is quite cold in winter so of course it was very cold when we entered on level one. It immediately got completely dark so we needed to use our head lanterns (miner issue). The walkways vary from big enough to walk in comfortably to so small you have to crawl on your hands and knees. To get from level to level, you need to scramble up or down steep grades or shaky ladders in the dark and at time the path ends and you need to traverse wooden boards or rocks to get across. We crawled up to level zero (because the level numbers go up as you descend) and immediately the temperature changed here it was HOT. So hot we were all sweating profusely where we´d been shivering just moments before. We met our first miner who talked to us as he worked and answered our questions. He had his 12 year old son with him. This is not uncommon in the mines. A couple of guys tried to use the big metal hammer and rod the miner used to make a hole in the rock and were far slower. It was a good demonstration of the strength needed to do this for hours on end. We went down to level two and hung out with another miner. The amount of dust in the air in the tunnels made it hard to breathe and our paper masks did little to help (plus it is more of a hinderance when you are panting and sweating). We finished our tour about two and a half hours after we entered the mine on level three. Here we got to see the mine´s Tio who is the local god of the mine (more like a devil). All of the mines have a Tio and the miners leave offerings of coca leaves, alcohol and cigarettes daily when they enter. Also on the way out it got so cold that there were icicles hanging from the walls of the mine. We were all exhausted and filthy. After we left the mine, we got a dynamite demonstration. Our guide put the fuse into the dynamite, lit it, passed it around so we could take pictures, planted it in the ground a little ways away, and ran back so we could watch it explode. I don´t think you get that on any tours in the US... Anyway, it was tough but I´m really glad I did it. The tour really makes you feel for the miners (who earn about 25 cents per kilo of silver they harvest).
OK, this computer is crazily slow so hopefully this will post. More soon!
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Friday, July 31, 2009
Sucre- la primera semana
Just finished my first week of classes here in Sucre. It´s a terrific place to study! The town is a good size, not too big or too small- about 200,000 people. It is a colonial city and the controversial capital of Bolivia (Evo wants to move it to La Paz and two of the branches of government are currently located there, but to anyone from Sucre, this is still the capital...). There are loads of lovely churches and museums and everything in the town is white, hence the nickname "The White City". Sucre is at 2700 meters so not as high as La Paz and Copacabana but still decent elevation. The weather is moderate year round so even though it is winter we have sunny afternoons where t-shirts are fine, but then you have to bundle up a bit at night. I´m really enjoying my time here.
I arrived on Sunday morning and wandered around for an hour looking for a hostel. I spent the day just kind of making my way through town and later met a couple of Irish guys to have dinner and drinks with. Monday morning I started classes. I´m attending the Bolivian Spanish School which is right on a park about a 10 minute walk from my hostel. I am doing 4 hours of one on one classes 5 days a week from 8:30 to 12:30. We have a break at 10:30 and on Monday a group of us went out for salteñas (similar to empanadas) during the break which was a good way to meet some other students and teachers. After class my first day, the head of the school told me that I was more advanced than they had anticipated and they wanted to switch me to a teacher with more experience with students at my level. Unfortunately that would only be possible if I switched classes to 2:30 to 6:30 which I didn´t want to do. So next week I am switching teachers. My teacher this week, Ana, was fine though. I kind of told her what I wanted to work on and she´d put together lessons and we did a lot of conversing and some excursions. But I am hoping to really improve a lot more after next week. I guess we´ll see.
The excursions I went on with the school were to the local cemetary and to a castle south of the city. The cemetary is gorgeous. Loads of trees and flowers and huge, marble masoleums. At least for the rich. The poor are buried in the back in graves marked with simple wooden crosses and apparently the people can only afford to rent the graves. So, after a year or two, the bodies are dug up and moved and new ones put in. I´m not exactly sure where the bodies go when they are moved... Former presidents of Bolivia and many of the famous martyrs are buried in the cemetary as well. The castle is called "La Glorieta" and was built by a former prince who adopted like 40 orphans (ha and his wife had no children of their own). It was another interesting excursion.
Yesterday after classes, I went with another student, Tim, to see the Dinosaur Park. We took the local transport up instead of the tourist bus which was much more intereting and a whole lot less expensive. A cement company in Bolivia unearthed the world´s largest area of dinosaur tracks here back in the 1990´s. There are over 5000 tracks including the world´s largest single track which is more than 350 meters long. The tracks were made on flat ground but with the movement of the plates, it has become a wall on the side of a mountain (vertical). The park has an overlook so you can see the wall and also displays models, a skeleton and molds of the tracks of the different types of dinosaurs. It was pretty fascinating in my opinion.
Yesterday night, Tim and I met up with Stephen, Michael and Makala (also from school) to go watch a local futbol (soccer) match. It was fun to go, but the locals were not really into it which was somewhat surprising for Latin America. There was one group of erious fans at the end of the field that sang, danced and cheered the entire game and sporadically set off fireworks. So they were fun to watch. The local team, Universitario, won 1-0.
Tonight the students are getting together at the school for dinner and drinks and Sunday a group of us are going to a local market town. Good times all around!
More next week.
I arrived on Sunday morning and wandered around for an hour looking for a hostel. I spent the day just kind of making my way through town and later met a couple of Irish guys to have dinner and drinks with. Monday morning I started classes. I´m attending the Bolivian Spanish School which is right on a park about a 10 minute walk from my hostel. I am doing 4 hours of one on one classes 5 days a week from 8:30 to 12:30. We have a break at 10:30 and on Monday a group of us went out for salteñas (similar to empanadas) during the break which was a good way to meet some other students and teachers. After class my first day, the head of the school told me that I was more advanced than they had anticipated and they wanted to switch me to a teacher with more experience with students at my level. Unfortunately that would only be possible if I switched classes to 2:30 to 6:30 which I didn´t want to do. So next week I am switching teachers. My teacher this week, Ana, was fine though. I kind of told her what I wanted to work on and she´d put together lessons and we did a lot of conversing and some excursions. But I am hoping to really improve a lot more after next week. I guess we´ll see.
The excursions I went on with the school were to the local cemetary and to a castle south of the city. The cemetary is gorgeous. Loads of trees and flowers and huge, marble masoleums. At least for the rich. The poor are buried in the back in graves marked with simple wooden crosses and apparently the people can only afford to rent the graves. So, after a year or two, the bodies are dug up and moved and new ones put in. I´m not exactly sure where the bodies go when they are moved... Former presidents of Bolivia and many of the famous martyrs are buried in the cemetary as well. The castle is called "La Glorieta" and was built by a former prince who adopted like 40 orphans (ha and his wife had no children of their own). It was another interesting excursion.
Yesterday after classes, I went with another student, Tim, to see the Dinosaur Park. We took the local transport up instead of the tourist bus which was much more intereting and a whole lot less expensive. A cement company in Bolivia unearthed the world´s largest area of dinosaur tracks here back in the 1990´s. There are over 5000 tracks including the world´s largest single track which is more than 350 meters long. The tracks were made on flat ground but with the movement of the plates, it has become a wall on the side of a mountain (vertical). The park has an overlook so you can see the wall and also displays models, a skeleton and molds of the tracks of the different types of dinosaurs. It was pretty fascinating in my opinion.
Yesterday night, Tim and I met up with Stephen, Michael and Makala (also from school) to go watch a local futbol (soccer) match. It was fun to go, but the locals were not really into it which was somewhat surprising for Latin America. There was one group of erious fans at the end of the field that sang, danced and cheered the entire game and sporadically set off fireworks. So they were fun to watch. The local team, Universitario, won 1-0.
Tonight the students are getting together at the school for dinner and drinks and Sunday a group of us are going to a local market town. Good times all around!
More next week.
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Isla del Sol, La Paz, and Cocha with the Huertas
Isla del Sol was awesome! Amazing scenery from both Peru and Bolivia (although the mountains on the Bolivian side were definitely more impressive). We arrived on the north side of the island and hiked to the northern tip to see some ruins. Then we took a path down the island to the south and the village of Yumani. Most of the people from the morning boats left the island at 4 but I decided to stay the night. I went up to a hilltop to watch the sunset over Peru and then headed to a restaurant near my guesthouse for dinner. I think a few more people than planned chose that restaurant for dinner because they ran out of nearly everything (you can have trout or trout) and it took nearly 3 hours to have a simple 3 course set meal. Luckily I was at a table with a really nice uncle and niece from Spain (she works in the Galapagos and he was visiting) so I got to practice my Spanish with friendly people while waiting. Turns out I am quite adept at whining in Spanish, but definitely can work on my vocabulary :). The next morning I watched the sun rise over Bolivia from my room (seriously, the scenery on the island is fantastic!) and then walked down to the southern ruins before the morning boat departures. I met a nice tour group from Sweden who let me join them on their fancy private boat back to Copacabana and got a late morning bus to La Paz.
Upon arrival in La Paz, I met a French girl named Nina who is spending the year in South America. We ended up sharing a room in La Paz and hanging out for the next few days. La Paz is very hilly, very high (12,000 feet), and right now (winter), very cold. But when it is clear, you can see the nearby mountains from the city which is lovely. Nina and I saw the movie UP in Spanish (good thing it was animated as I didn´t get much of the dialogue) and checked out the very interesting Museo de Coca. We ate local almuerzos (inexpensive set lunch) and I got a chance to see the new Harry Potter (I loved it but it wasn´t my favorite of the movies). We also went and saw live local music and met some mountain climbers.
Since I am coming back to La Paz in October, I only stayed for 2 days and then headed to Cochabamba. My friend Heidi is from Cocha and put me in touch with her family here. The Huetras are the most amazing hosts!! Thank you so much Chichi and Nelly! Chichi picked me up the first day and took me on a scenic tour of the city and to her lovely home. Nelly came and met us and we went out and got marrequetas (fresh, sweet bread rolls) and then went for the most fantastic hot chocolate I´ve ever had at Chocolate Para Ti. Nelly brought me to her house and let me try calling home on her fancy Magic Jack before dropping me back at my hotel. The next day I wandered around the main area of Cocha in the morning and visited many of the churches and squares. Nelly picked me up in the afternoon and we went up to see the world´s largest statue of Jesus (yes, taller than the one in Rio- barely). Nelly is super outgoing so we met loads of people. Plus, I swear the Huertas know everyone in Cocha so we constantly stopped to talk to people and I met more people than I can possibly remember. It was like being with local celebrities! After the statue, we went for terrific empanadas, juice and huminitas (like sweet corn bread with anis) and then back to Nelly´s for a bit. In the evening we went to Recoleta and walked around and then saw a jazz trio playing Bolivian classics (and others) at a wine and cheese event at the upscale Hotel Cochabamba. Such a great day! Yesterday Chichi took me to lunch for chorizos (yummy spicy sausage). I have now tried every single food on the list that Heidi sent me (and then some) and I have to say that I´m a fan of Bolivian food! After chorizos, we stopped and got a cinnamin ice cream for desert. I´ve seriously been spoiled the past few days! Later in the day, I met up with Nina who had arrived in Cocha the night before and we went to see a Brasilian concert in a European mansion in the north of town.
So after a terrific time in Cochabamba, I´m heading to Sucre this evening. Monday I start Spanish classes so I am planning to actually stay in one place for 2 whole weeks. We´ll see how it goes.
Ciao for now!
Upon arrival in La Paz, I met a French girl named Nina who is spending the year in South America. We ended up sharing a room in La Paz and hanging out for the next few days. La Paz is very hilly, very high (12,000 feet), and right now (winter), very cold. But when it is clear, you can see the nearby mountains from the city which is lovely. Nina and I saw the movie UP in Spanish (good thing it was animated as I didn´t get much of the dialogue) and checked out the very interesting Museo de Coca. We ate local almuerzos (inexpensive set lunch) and I got a chance to see the new Harry Potter (I loved it but it wasn´t my favorite of the movies). We also went and saw live local music and met some mountain climbers.
Since I am coming back to La Paz in October, I only stayed for 2 days and then headed to Cochabamba. My friend Heidi is from Cocha and put me in touch with her family here. The Huetras are the most amazing hosts!! Thank you so much Chichi and Nelly! Chichi picked me up the first day and took me on a scenic tour of the city and to her lovely home. Nelly came and met us and we went out and got marrequetas (fresh, sweet bread rolls) and then went for the most fantastic hot chocolate I´ve ever had at Chocolate Para Ti. Nelly brought me to her house and let me try calling home on her fancy Magic Jack before dropping me back at my hotel. The next day I wandered around the main area of Cocha in the morning and visited many of the churches and squares. Nelly picked me up in the afternoon and we went up to see the world´s largest statue of Jesus (yes, taller than the one in Rio- barely). Nelly is super outgoing so we met loads of people. Plus, I swear the Huertas know everyone in Cocha so we constantly stopped to talk to people and I met more people than I can possibly remember. It was like being with local celebrities! After the statue, we went for terrific empanadas, juice and huminitas (like sweet corn bread with anis) and then back to Nelly´s for a bit. In the evening we went to Recoleta and walked around and then saw a jazz trio playing Bolivian classics (and others) at a wine and cheese event at the upscale Hotel Cochabamba. Such a great day! Yesterday Chichi took me to lunch for chorizos (yummy spicy sausage). I have now tried every single food on the list that Heidi sent me (and then some) and I have to say that I´m a fan of Bolivian food! After chorizos, we stopped and got a cinnamin ice cream for desert. I´ve seriously been spoiled the past few days! Later in the day, I met up with Nina who had arrived in Cocha the night before and we went to see a Brasilian concert in a European mansion in the north of town.
So after a terrific time in Cochabamba, I´m heading to Sucre this evening. Monday I start Spanish classes so I am planning to actually stay in one place for 2 whole weeks. We´ll see how it goes.
Ciao for now!
Friday, July 17, 2009
Zanzibar
Well there is more to cover here than Zanzibar, but I love the way it sounds... Now that I am in South America I should have no problem posting more regularly. Has to be said, it has been a bit flattering to get complaints about the lack of posts. Thanks for reading everyoine...
Right, back to Africa. From Mombasa I crossed into Tanzania (and paid the $100 visa fee- traveling as an American is expensive!). I spent a night in a cute little seaside town called Tanga and was planning to head to Lushoto to do some hiking, but I could not get an honest fare from the public bus station so I opted to use a private bus company to go directly to Dar Es Salaam. I spent a couple of days wandering around Dar and trying to sort out plans to get to South America. I decided to cut Africa short as I had already done a safari and beaches and it is surprisingly expensive to travel independently through Africa. There is definitely more I want to see there in future trips though! Anyway, my friend Heidi was nice enough to put me in touch with her friend Patricia who lives in Dar and she agreed to meet me for dinner. I had quite an adventure trying to get to the suburb of Mikocheni- my lack of swahili and knowledge of Dar made a 30 minute daladala (public minibus) ride into a 2.5 hour excursion including 3 daladalas and some help from friendly locals. But I made it right about on time. Patricia took me to this great restaurant called Dar Alivc that is right on the beach and decorated with old traditional African wooden boats. We had terrific grilled snapper while sitting on the sand with the waves crashing in the background. If you go to Dar, definitely eat there! Patricia then took me home to meet her family which was awesome! It was a terrific evening all around.
After one more day in Dar (sorted out my South America plans- finally!) I hopped on the slow boat to Zanzibar. Has to be said, Zanzibar deserves the hype. It really is a beach paradise. I spent the first night in Stonestown which is an old colonial town and a great place to wander the narrow, cobblestone streets. For dinner I headed to the nightly market where stalss set up selling cheap, fresh seafood on skewers and Zanzibar pizzas- dough filled with your chice of meat, veggies, eggs, and chiles or banana and chocolate. I had both. The next morning I took a shuttle to Nungwi, a beach town on the north coast. I got a cute little room just off the beach and spent the day reading and sunning. That evening I met a trio from Ireland and through them a couple of Danish guys and a couple from California. We all headed to the full moon party down the beach at a nearby resort. The party was great, music, bonfires, the beach and lots of people. The next couple of days I spent relaxing on the beach and hanging out with that cerw and some others we met. It was pretty much perfect! Finally it was time to head back to Dar. Sawyer and Malana- the California couple, and an English guy named Lee accompanied me back to Stonestown for one more night. We watched the sunset over beer at the Africa House and went back to the night market. Lee and I took the ferry back to Dar the next afternoon and hung out there. He was going to the beaches south of Dar for a few days so I tagged along for the day. Has to be said, as nice as Zanzibar is, the beaches south of Dar are equally lovely and much less expensive... I{m glad I got to see both.
The next few days was a whirlwind. I flew to Cairo where I was hoping to see the pyramids on my 22 hour layover. Unfortunately it took Air Egypt 4 huors to sort out the transit visa and hotel (which was free with my ticket, but had I known how long it would take, I would have passed) so I did not get a chance to go. The next morning I flew to New York and spent a lovely evening and day with my aunt Randi and family (thank you Randi!!). The next night I headed into NYC for dinner with Kara and Justine. Monday morning I flew to Fort Lauderdale for 4 hours and had lunch and ice cream with my parents before flying to Lima, Peru that night. Three continents in four days.
I spent a night and a day in Lima. It was really nice to be there as I know my way around a bit from the 6 weeks I spent there in 2005. My Spanish seems to be rising to the challenge of South America and it is so nice to be able to understand some of what goes on around me! I pretty much flew through Peru on my way to Bolivia. Overnight bus to Arequipa, then bus to Puno. I spent a night in Puno with a couple from Oregon I met on the bus and then crossed the border to Bolivia yesterday afternoon. And now, I am really going to try and slow down a bit! Wish me luck. Last night I met up with Molly and Devin (OR couple) on the top of the hill that overlooks Copacabana and Lake Titicaca to watch the sunset. It was awesome! It is a little chilly here at 12,500 feet since it is winter, but the scenery is lovely and the town is super laid back. This morning I went to the cathedral to see the blessing of the automobiles. Every day the priest comes out and blesses a line of cars and buses. Flowers are adorned on windshields, holy water is sprinkled, beer is sprayed and ashes scattered. It was really interesting to watch. Tomorrow I am planning to head to Isla del Sol- the Island of the Sun, which the Incas believed to be the birthplace of the sun. Should be fun!
Pics from Africa are up-
http://picasaweb.google.com/stacyb/Africa
All for now- more soon!
Right, back to Africa. From Mombasa I crossed into Tanzania (and paid the $100 visa fee- traveling as an American is expensive!). I spent a night in a cute little seaside town called Tanga and was planning to head to Lushoto to do some hiking, but I could not get an honest fare from the public bus station so I opted to use a private bus company to go directly to Dar Es Salaam. I spent a couple of days wandering around Dar and trying to sort out plans to get to South America. I decided to cut Africa short as I had already done a safari and beaches and it is surprisingly expensive to travel independently through Africa. There is definitely more I want to see there in future trips though! Anyway, my friend Heidi was nice enough to put me in touch with her friend Patricia who lives in Dar and she agreed to meet me for dinner. I had quite an adventure trying to get to the suburb of Mikocheni- my lack of swahili and knowledge of Dar made a 30 minute daladala (public minibus) ride into a 2.5 hour excursion including 3 daladalas and some help from friendly locals. But I made it right about on time. Patricia took me to this great restaurant called Dar Alivc that is right on the beach and decorated with old traditional African wooden boats. We had terrific grilled snapper while sitting on the sand with the waves crashing in the background. If you go to Dar, definitely eat there! Patricia then took me home to meet her family which was awesome! It was a terrific evening all around.
After one more day in Dar (sorted out my South America plans- finally!) I hopped on the slow boat to Zanzibar. Has to be said, Zanzibar deserves the hype. It really is a beach paradise. I spent the first night in Stonestown which is an old colonial town and a great place to wander the narrow, cobblestone streets. For dinner I headed to the nightly market where stalss set up selling cheap, fresh seafood on skewers and Zanzibar pizzas- dough filled with your chice of meat, veggies, eggs, and chiles or banana and chocolate. I had both. The next morning I took a shuttle to Nungwi, a beach town on the north coast. I got a cute little room just off the beach and spent the day reading and sunning. That evening I met a trio from Ireland and through them a couple of Danish guys and a couple from California. We all headed to the full moon party down the beach at a nearby resort. The party was great, music, bonfires, the beach and lots of people. The next couple of days I spent relaxing on the beach and hanging out with that cerw and some others we met. It was pretty much perfect! Finally it was time to head back to Dar. Sawyer and Malana- the California couple, and an English guy named Lee accompanied me back to Stonestown for one more night. We watched the sunset over beer at the Africa House and went back to the night market. Lee and I took the ferry back to Dar the next afternoon and hung out there. He was going to the beaches south of Dar for a few days so I tagged along for the day. Has to be said, as nice as Zanzibar is, the beaches south of Dar are equally lovely and much less expensive... I{m glad I got to see both.
The next few days was a whirlwind. I flew to Cairo where I was hoping to see the pyramids on my 22 hour layover. Unfortunately it took Air Egypt 4 huors to sort out the transit visa and hotel (which was free with my ticket, but had I known how long it would take, I would have passed) so I did not get a chance to go. The next morning I flew to New York and spent a lovely evening and day with my aunt Randi and family (thank you Randi!!). The next night I headed into NYC for dinner with Kara and Justine. Monday morning I flew to Fort Lauderdale for 4 hours and had lunch and ice cream with my parents before flying to Lima, Peru that night. Three continents in four days.
I spent a night and a day in Lima. It was really nice to be there as I know my way around a bit from the 6 weeks I spent there in 2005. My Spanish seems to be rising to the challenge of South America and it is so nice to be able to understand some of what goes on around me! I pretty much flew through Peru on my way to Bolivia. Overnight bus to Arequipa, then bus to Puno. I spent a night in Puno with a couple from Oregon I met on the bus and then crossed the border to Bolivia yesterday afternoon. And now, I am really going to try and slow down a bit! Wish me luck. Last night I met up with Molly and Devin (OR couple) on the top of the hill that overlooks Copacabana and Lake Titicaca to watch the sunset. It was awesome! It is a little chilly here at 12,500 feet since it is winter, but the scenery is lovely and the town is super laid back. This morning I went to the cathedral to see the blessing of the automobiles. Every day the priest comes out and blesses a line of cars and buses. Flowers are adorned on windshields, holy water is sprinkled, beer is sprayed and ashes scattered. It was really interesting to watch. Tomorrow I am planning to head to Isla del Sol- the Island of the Sun, which the Incas believed to be the birthplace of the sun. Should be fun!
Pics from Africa are up-
http://picasaweb.google.com/stacyb/Africa
All for now- more soon!
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Into the Wild
Jambo!
It has been ages, I know. Internet access in Africa is tres slow. So much to catch up on...
Delhi was short but sweet. Met some great people and saw some sights. Really noticed the poverty and the people with deformities who used it to beg for money. Seemed more prevalent than in Calcutta.
Then it was on to Kenya. I just spent one day in Nairobi and then I did a 3 day safari in Masai Mara. It was incredible! We saw tons of elephants, lions, jackals, buffalo, warthogs, impala, hippos, crocs, many different birds... We did 4 game drives in the three days and the second day we drove all the way to Tanzania! Our safari van had a roof that opened up so we were really right next to the animals with nothing to block the view. The highlight was the three lions sleeping next to a buffalo carcass (the morning's kill) while 6 jackals alternately ripped it apart and watched for the lions to wake up. We also got to see lion mothers and cubs. The first night our guides took us into the Masai Mara village to hang out with the locals and listen to Kenyan music. It was definitely a highlight as well.
After the Mara I went to Lake Naivasha for a few days. The plan was to bike through the park (the only one in Kenya you can go into without a guide and vehicle) but I rode right past the turnoff and didn't realize my mistake for 15km. By the time I got back to the park I was exhausted and decided to pass. But I still saw giraffe, zebra, and impala on my ride near the park! The Lake was a great place to relax and the camp I stayed at had a social restaurant where I met other travelers and watched monkeys frolic.
Next stop was the coast. After 24 hours of buses and matatus (shared vans) and a boat, I arrived on the very chill island of Lamu on Kenya's NE coast. I planned to spend 2 dys there and work my way down to Mombasa, but I liked it so much I stayed for 5. The first night I went to the home of a local chef, Chef Alli Hippie, who supposedly once cooked for the Rolling Stones when they were in Kenya. The meal was by far the best I've had in Africa. Seafood fritters, fresh chapati and sauce, coconut rice, fish, and lobster. Plus a desert, juice and live entertainment from Alli's family after the meal. I met some other travelers at dinner including Paul from England who became my Lamu partner in crime. The next day we went to the beach and checked out the little town of Shela (where I accidentaly ordered entrails for lunch- ICK). Later we met some local guys who took us to a nearby local village to taste palm wine. I got a little oversunned that day so I spent the next couple of days doing a lot of reading and going to the local musuems. I also learned to play Bao which involves a wooden board and stones. Finally I felt it was time to move on and headed to Mombasa.
I didn't love Mombasa so I spent an afternoon on Diani beach which is about 45 minutes south (if I go back, I'll stay there instead- great place!). Then I headed to Tanzania! Yesterday I stopped over in a little coastal town called Tanga and today I came to Dar. Just arrived here so not much to report but Zanzibar is just off the coast so time to blow the budget again and check it out (I mean it is Zanzibar...). Oh but NB on my last post, Kara had to cancel in the end so I opted not to do Kilimanjaro. It'll have to stay on the list for now.
More soon!
It has been ages, I know. Internet access in Africa is tres slow. So much to catch up on...
Delhi was short but sweet. Met some great people and saw some sights. Really noticed the poverty and the people with deformities who used it to beg for money. Seemed more prevalent than in Calcutta.
Then it was on to Kenya. I just spent one day in Nairobi and then I did a 3 day safari in Masai Mara. It was incredible! We saw tons of elephants, lions, jackals, buffalo, warthogs, impala, hippos, crocs, many different birds... We did 4 game drives in the three days and the second day we drove all the way to Tanzania! Our safari van had a roof that opened up so we were really right next to the animals with nothing to block the view. The highlight was the three lions sleeping next to a buffalo carcass (the morning's kill) while 6 jackals alternately ripped it apart and watched for the lions to wake up. We also got to see lion mothers and cubs. The first night our guides took us into the Masai Mara village to hang out with the locals and listen to Kenyan music. It was definitely a highlight as well.
After the Mara I went to Lake Naivasha for a few days. The plan was to bike through the park (the only one in Kenya you can go into without a guide and vehicle) but I rode right past the turnoff and didn't realize my mistake for 15km. By the time I got back to the park I was exhausted and decided to pass. But I still saw giraffe, zebra, and impala on my ride near the park! The Lake was a great place to relax and the camp I stayed at had a social restaurant where I met other travelers and watched monkeys frolic.
Next stop was the coast. After 24 hours of buses and matatus (shared vans) and a boat, I arrived on the very chill island of Lamu on Kenya's NE coast. I planned to spend 2 dys there and work my way down to Mombasa, but I liked it so much I stayed for 5. The first night I went to the home of a local chef, Chef Alli Hippie, who supposedly once cooked for the Rolling Stones when they were in Kenya. The meal was by far the best I've had in Africa. Seafood fritters, fresh chapati and sauce, coconut rice, fish, and lobster. Plus a desert, juice and live entertainment from Alli's family after the meal. I met some other travelers at dinner including Paul from England who became my Lamu partner in crime. The next day we went to the beach and checked out the little town of Shela (where I accidentaly ordered entrails for lunch- ICK). Later we met some local guys who took us to a nearby local village to taste palm wine. I got a little oversunned that day so I spent the next couple of days doing a lot of reading and going to the local musuems. I also learned to play Bao which involves a wooden board and stones. Finally I felt it was time to move on and headed to Mombasa.
I didn't love Mombasa so I spent an afternoon on Diani beach which is about 45 minutes south (if I go back, I'll stay there instead- great place!). Then I headed to Tanzania! Yesterday I stopped over in a little coastal town called Tanga and today I came to Dar. Just arrived here so not much to report but Zanzibar is just off the coast so time to blow the budget again and check it out (I mean it is Zanzibar...). Oh but NB on my last post, Kara had to cancel in the end so I opted not to do Kilimanjaro. It'll have to stay on the list for now.
More soon!
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Free Tibet!
No, I'm not going all political, I'm just quoting the signs, shirts, etc that are everywhere in McLeod Ganj. Seriously, I have seen more Free Tibet paraphernalia here than I have seen the rest of my life combined (and remember, I lived in Portland AND San Francisco). The reason for this is that McLeod Ganj and Dharamsala have a large Tibetan refugee community and are home to the Dali Lama as well as the Tibetan Parliament in Exile. Pretty interesting stuff as I've bever been exposed to a population and governemnt in exile.
Giong to take a moment to voice my frustration that once again there is an issue with my card, reader or this computer so I cannot upload my India pictures. Will try another cybercafe later. Grr.
Right. Well more about McLeod Ganj. Its a big traveler town with lots of yoga and meditation and buddhism classes. I may have touched on that in my last post. I didn't partake in any of this but it is interesting to be surrounded by it. For me, the highlight of my time in McLeod was the day hike I did to Triund. Triund is 9 km from Mcleod pretty much straight up. It was quite a hike but at the end you come over a ridge and there is a lovely meadow with colorful tents set up surrounded by loads of snowy mountain peaks that look close enough to touch. Totally worth the climb! I'd show you a picture but... OK letting that go. Also near McLeod I walked 2 km to Bhagsu and the waterfall and temple there. The waterfall is really a trickle at the moment but the people watching on the walk there was worthwhile. I also walked up 3 km a few times to the little village of Dharamkot which is smaller and more picturesque than McLeod and has a great vibe. It is also a haven for Israelis (all the restaurants serve Israeli food and there are loads of them there).
I decided to head north to the hill station of Dalhousie in the Chamba Valley instead of going to Shimla or Manali. It was fairly quiet and had some nice scenery but overall I wasn't that impressed. I had some issues with my guesthouse and kind of got ripped off on a day tour and just spent a day there before coming back to McLeod. Basically, if you get the choice, I say skip it and go to Manali. The one impressive thing about Dalhousie was the gigantic monkeys that were everywhere. Big white ones with black faces that were about the size of a human teenager. Pretty crazy. There are also many monkeys in McLeod but they are more your run of the mill little brown fellas.
Not much else to report at the moment. I've been catching up on movies here are they show them at a few makeshift cinemas in town. The momos here aren't as good as in West Bengal and Sikkim but there is lots of other good Indian and Tibetan food. Tonight I take an overnight bus to Delhi and Monday morning I fly out to Kenya. I'm hoping Kara's firm will figure out when she can meet me in Tanzania for Kilimanjaro. Its been pushed back 3 times now. Everyone cross your fingers for her as I really am excited to do that!
Got the pics up! Here is the link:
Giong to take a moment to voice my frustration that once again there is an issue with my card, reader or this computer so I cannot upload my India pictures. Will try another cybercafe later. Grr.
Right. Well more about McLeod Ganj. Its a big traveler town with lots of yoga and meditation and buddhism classes. I may have touched on that in my last post. I didn't partake in any of this but it is interesting to be surrounded by it. For me, the highlight of my time in McLeod was the day hike I did to Triund. Triund is 9 km from Mcleod pretty much straight up. It was quite a hike but at the end you come over a ridge and there is a lovely meadow with colorful tents set up surrounded by loads of snowy mountain peaks that look close enough to touch. Totally worth the climb! I'd show you a picture but... OK letting that go. Also near McLeod I walked 2 km to Bhagsu and the waterfall and temple there. The waterfall is really a trickle at the moment but the people watching on the walk there was worthwhile. I also walked up 3 km a few times to the little village of Dharamkot which is smaller and more picturesque than McLeod and has a great vibe. It is also a haven for Israelis (all the restaurants serve Israeli food and there are loads of them there).
I decided to head north to the hill station of Dalhousie in the Chamba Valley instead of going to Shimla or Manali. It was fairly quiet and had some nice scenery but overall I wasn't that impressed. I had some issues with my guesthouse and kind of got ripped off on a day tour and just spent a day there before coming back to McLeod. Basically, if you get the choice, I say skip it and go to Manali. The one impressive thing about Dalhousie was the gigantic monkeys that were everywhere. Big white ones with black faces that were about the size of a human teenager. Pretty crazy. There are also many monkeys in McLeod but they are more your run of the mill little brown fellas.
Not much else to report at the moment. I've been catching up on movies here are they show them at a few makeshift cinemas in town. The momos here aren't as good as in West Bengal and Sikkim but there is lots of other good Indian and Tibetan food. Tonight I take an overnight bus to Delhi and Monday morning I fly out to Kenya. I'm hoping Kara's firm will figure out when she can meet me in Tanzania for Kilimanjaro. Its been pushed back 3 times now. Everyone cross your fingers for her as I really am excited to do that!
Got the pics up! Here is the link:
Friday, June 5, 2009
West Sikkim and the road to McLeod
Howdy,
So West Sikkim. Well I shared a jeep with the couple from the lake trip, Sara and Mike so we got a room together in Pelling in West Sikkim. The room was kinda like summer camp in that it was made of wood and had a cabin type of feel. We also had a TV (luxury) which was good since it poured down rain our first day there. We also met up with my friend Dan from Darjeeling in Pelling. Once the rain cleared we hiked up to a huge monastery with a very ornate sculpture on the top floor. There were also very suggestive murals covered by sheets which we found amusing. Wlking in Sikkim is always hiking. Everything is stright up or straight down. And it totally felt like a lot more up than down (doesn't it always). Just thought you should know. So after the first monastery we trekked up to Pelling's other famous monastery which is the second oldest in Sikkim. And man was that walk exhausting! But the views from the top were nice and we posed in photos with Indian tourists (which never ceases to amuse me- they love us). Later we had beers on the rooftop of our hotel with Dan and some guys he'd met and an impromptu jam session broke out. Gotta love "Hotel California" in India. We later went to see some live music (Stevie Wonder covers and all).
From Pelling we piled 14 people into a jeep made for 8 and headed for Yuksom. Yuksom is the historic spot where 3 lamas met in the 1400s and decided to create Sikkim. The stone they sat on, Coronation Rock, is still there. Yuksom is a cute little mountain village. It has an 8 PM curfew but we discovered that if you head to a restaurant, you can stay out until 10 (don't tell). So we had dinner and Tongba and met a nice Frenchman and made plans to go hiking the following day.
The hike was part of the "monastic trek" and 9 km to Ketchapari Lake. 9 km does not sound like much but keep in mind it is Sikkim. The first 5 km were super steep downhill into a valley and then we had to climb 4 km back up to the lake on the other side. Plus the trail was not all that well marked so we had to keep asking locals for directions. It was a long, hot, 3 hour hike. But the lake was very peaceful and there is absolutely no debris on it. Legend has it that it is a holy lake and the birds keep it spotless. We spent the night at a homestay above the lake with great views of the valley- you could see all the way back to Yuksom. And the food was terrific! I didn't realize that random forrest plants could taste so good. Sara, Mike, Dan, and Alain liked the lake so much they decided to spend another night. I had to head on though since my permit for SIkkim was about to expire. So I trekked back alone (very glad I'd loaded up my iPod with Mike's music) and spent one more night in Yuksom.
The next couple of days were tedious travel days so I won't bore you with details of jeeps back to Siliguri and a 21 hour train to Delhi followed by a 5 hour train to Chandigarh. Chandigarh is where I decided to stopover on my way to McLeod Ganj (because I couldn't face 12 hours on a bus after 21 on a train). Chandigarh is India's experimental architecture city. It was designed by a famous Swiss architect whose name eludes me at the moment (Le something). It is very clean and set up in a grid with numbered sectors. There are many gardens and a big lake in the center of town. There is also a huge rock garden that reminded me a lot of Parke Guell in Barcelona. My only complaint about Chandigarh (other than the heat- NEVER go to southern India in May or early june) was that accommodation was really expensive. Oh well- just a stopover.
Yesterday morning I got on a bus to Dharamsala. Eight long, hot, sweaty hours later (no AC on the bus) I arrived and got a taxi to McLeod Ganj (was planning to take another bus but apparently the bus driver was drunk and the next bus was 1.5 hours later). McLeod Ganj is home of the Tibetan government in exile (well Dharamsala is but technically McLeod is part of Dharamsala). It has loads of yoga and meditation classes and is a huge Buddhist haven. There is also a good deal of environmental awareness going on here so this morning I participated in a cleanup of a dumping area in town. It was hot and gross and felt a bit like an exercise in futility since we all know the locals will be dumping more trash where we just cleaned (that's how they roll in India), but I got my karma points for the day. After the cleanup I headed to the Dali Lamas residence and temple and to a museum that details the takeover of Tibet and the crimes against humanity committed therein. Pretty disturbing stuff.
So that's me caught up for the moment. Ten more days in India and then I am headed to Kenya to begin the African leg of my trip. I'm deciding between a 4 day trek here or heading to one more place in India before I fly out. We'll see. I definitely will be coming back to India at some point though. It is fascintating! And I have only gotten to see a small bit....
Hope everyone is well.
St
So West Sikkim. Well I shared a jeep with the couple from the lake trip, Sara and Mike so we got a room together in Pelling in West Sikkim. The room was kinda like summer camp in that it was made of wood and had a cabin type of feel. We also had a TV (luxury) which was good since it poured down rain our first day there. We also met up with my friend Dan from Darjeeling in Pelling. Once the rain cleared we hiked up to a huge monastery with a very ornate sculpture on the top floor. There were also very suggestive murals covered by sheets which we found amusing. Wlking in Sikkim is always hiking. Everything is stright up or straight down. And it totally felt like a lot more up than down (doesn't it always). Just thought you should know. So after the first monastery we trekked up to Pelling's other famous monastery which is the second oldest in Sikkim. And man was that walk exhausting! But the views from the top were nice and we posed in photos with Indian tourists (which never ceases to amuse me- they love us). Later we had beers on the rooftop of our hotel with Dan and some guys he'd met and an impromptu jam session broke out. Gotta love "Hotel California" in India. We later went to see some live music (Stevie Wonder covers and all).
From Pelling we piled 14 people into a jeep made for 8 and headed for Yuksom. Yuksom is the historic spot where 3 lamas met in the 1400s and decided to create Sikkim. The stone they sat on, Coronation Rock, is still there. Yuksom is a cute little mountain village. It has an 8 PM curfew but we discovered that if you head to a restaurant, you can stay out until 10 (don't tell). So we had dinner and Tongba and met a nice Frenchman and made plans to go hiking the following day.
The hike was part of the "monastic trek" and 9 km to Ketchapari Lake. 9 km does not sound like much but keep in mind it is Sikkim. The first 5 km were super steep downhill into a valley and then we had to climb 4 km back up to the lake on the other side. Plus the trail was not all that well marked so we had to keep asking locals for directions. It was a long, hot, 3 hour hike. But the lake was very peaceful and there is absolutely no debris on it. Legend has it that it is a holy lake and the birds keep it spotless. We spent the night at a homestay above the lake with great views of the valley- you could see all the way back to Yuksom. And the food was terrific! I didn't realize that random forrest plants could taste so good. Sara, Mike, Dan, and Alain liked the lake so much they decided to spend another night. I had to head on though since my permit for SIkkim was about to expire. So I trekked back alone (very glad I'd loaded up my iPod with Mike's music) and spent one more night in Yuksom.
The next couple of days were tedious travel days so I won't bore you with details of jeeps back to Siliguri and a 21 hour train to Delhi followed by a 5 hour train to Chandigarh. Chandigarh is where I decided to stopover on my way to McLeod Ganj (because I couldn't face 12 hours on a bus after 21 on a train). Chandigarh is India's experimental architecture city. It was designed by a famous Swiss architect whose name eludes me at the moment (Le something). It is very clean and set up in a grid with numbered sectors. There are many gardens and a big lake in the center of town. There is also a huge rock garden that reminded me a lot of Parke Guell in Barcelona. My only complaint about Chandigarh (other than the heat- NEVER go to southern India in May or early june) was that accommodation was really expensive. Oh well- just a stopover.
Yesterday morning I got on a bus to Dharamsala. Eight long, hot, sweaty hours later (no AC on the bus) I arrived and got a taxi to McLeod Ganj (was planning to take another bus but apparently the bus driver was drunk and the next bus was 1.5 hours later). McLeod Ganj is home of the Tibetan government in exile (well Dharamsala is but technically McLeod is part of Dharamsala). It has loads of yoga and meditation classes and is a huge Buddhist haven. There is also a good deal of environmental awareness going on here so this morning I participated in a cleanup of a dumping area in town. It was hot and gross and felt a bit like an exercise in futility since we all know the locals will be dumping more trash where we just cleaned (that's how they roll in India), but I got my karma points for the day. After the cleanup I headed to the Dali Lamas residence and temple and to a museum that details the takeover of Tibet and the crimes against humanity committed therein. Pretty disturbing stuff.
So that's me caught up for the moment. Ten more days in India and then I am headed to Kenya to begin the African leg of my trip. I'm deciding between a 4 day trek here or heading to one more place in India before I fly out. We'll see. I definitely will be coming back to India at some point though. It is fascintating! And I have only gotten to see a small bit....
Hope everyone is well.
St
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